FAQ

Questions Answered

Q.   What is the new Refiner Oil Refiner?

A.   The new Refiner Oil Refiner, invented by John Frantz, is his latest and best redesign prior to his death. This oil filter is a high-grade, highly efficient "by-pass" filter. This means that a portion of the oil is continually being sampled and cleaned but is being filtered to a much finer degree than it would be by a standard "full-flow" filter. The servicing of this model far exceeds the maintenance of prior models.

Q.   What advantages or disadvantages does the Refiner Oil Refiner have over a conventional "full-flow" filter?

A.     The Refiner Oil Refiner filters particles as small as one micron and traps them in the toilet paper filter element. These very fine particles are what cause your engine to wear. The larger particles do not easily remain suspended in the oil so there is a tendency for them to settle to the bottom of the oil pan creating your typical sludge. With the Refiner Oil Refiner and regular toilet paper (TP) element changes you should not have sludge conditions in your engine. I cannot think of any disadvantages.

Q.   How can continually filtering just a portion of the oil be as effective as filtering all of the oil like the full flow filter does?

A.     All of the oil is constantly being filtered and kept clean of fine dirt and engine wear particles which can enter the lubrication system in various ways. The entire oil supply is eventually sampled and filtered through the Refiner Oil Refiner at the rate of about 1-2 cups per minute when cold. However, when the oil is at the operating temperature, the rate can be 5 or 6 cups per minute. At this rate more than 99% of the oil in a five-quart crankcase will have passed through the Refiner Oil Refiner TP element in about 6 or 7 minutes allowing for mixing in the pan. These numbers can vary depending on the viscosity and temperature of your operating oil and your oil pressure.

Q.   What is included in the Refiner Oil Refiner kit?

A.   The kit includes everything necessary for a standard installation on almost any internal combustion engine.

  • First, the Refiner Oil Refiner has a filtering screen inside along with the initial filtering element (TP).
  • Then, an orange painted mounting bracket with associated nuts, bolts, and washers is included to mount the Oil Refiner to the mounting bracket plus four self-tapping metal screws are included for mounting the mounting bracket to the vehicle..
  • Approximately seven feet of petroleum oil line hose with two male brass hose fittings, two female brass hose fittings, two straight hose fitting adapters, and four Oetiker hose clamps are included. Also included is a 90-degree and a 45-degree hose fitting.
  • A brass Tee fitting, punch tool, and self-tapping hollow bolt installation kit is included.
  • Installation instructions is included to assist you in installing the Refiner Oil Refiner to your vehicle including optional methods such as the use of a sandwich adapter or alternate return methods for the clean oil to be returned back to the engine.
  • An owner's manual is included for care and servicing of the Refiner oil filter.

Q.   Why should I bother to read all the facts about the new, improved Refiner Oil Refiner?

A.   To put it simply, the Refiner Oil Refiner saves you money and engine repairs, and it gives a more efficiently running engine.

Q.   How do I service the Refiner Oil Filter?

A.   Place a roll of 1-ply toilet paper centered onto the filter base tucking in any paper overlapping the edge. Cover the toilet paper with the canister and clamp it in place making sure the knob is tight. That's it. The toilet paper should be inexpensive quality with a 4-1/4" long cardboard center core. The core should not be tight with the center of part of the canister so oil is allowed to travel through the cardboard core for circulation.

Q.   Why is the Refiner Oil Refiner better than any ordinary filter?

A.   Because it not only has the finest filter medium that money can buy, but it’s also the least expensive. Automotive engineers have spent years looking for the perfect oil filter. We think they should have looked in the bathroom. Most American and foreign cars come with an oil filter made of paper 1/32 of an inch thick. Because all the oil must pass through this paper before it reaches the bearings, and because your engine requires up to ten quarts or more of oil per minute, the proper lubrication, this 1/32-inch-thick paper acts like a sieve, removing only the larger particles of dirt allowing the smaller particles to pass right on through. That is why auto manufacturers insist that you must drain your oil periodically – because it is dirty!!! The Refiner Oil Refiner uses a chosen type of toilet tissue as the filtering media. Don’t laugh! This element is 100 percent pure cellulose, one of the finest filtering mediums known to man.

  • 100% pure cellulose is used to filter the harmful tars and nicotine from cigarette smoke.
  • 100% pure cellulose is used as a filter in the finest research laboratories.
  • 100% pure cellulose is used as a filter in automatic coffee makers to brew fine coffee.
  • 100% pure cellulose in the Oil Refiner will keep your oil cleaner than any factory full-flow filter!

A few uninformed persons claim that the cellulose fibers in the tissue roll disintegrate and plug oil galleries, resulting in burned-out engines. This is absolutely false! In over 65 years of use, no damage has ever been proven due to the escape of tissue into the engine system. This type of element is so effective that it can remove particles as small as one micron (that’s more than 100 times smaller than the thickness of a human hair). Due to its natural affinity for water, it will absorb more than six to eight ounces of water with no reduction in its filtering capacity. The Refiner Oil Refiner’s element filters your oil through 4-1/4 inches of highly compressed pure cellulose at a rate of approximately one quart per minute. The nature of the filter media and the slow filtration rate is the reason the tissue element cleans the oil so effectively. This type of filtration is called a bypass, and the bearings are not dependent on the oil flowing through it. You may have seen the old trick of blowing smoke through a piece of tissue paper. The microscopic particles are actually trapped by the paper. The same thing happens to your oil as it flows through the Refiner Oil Refiner. Carbon, sludge, and all abrasive metals are trapped in the tissue roll and are prevented from returning to the engine. The full-flow filters on today’s market can only be designated as a strainer to accommodate the full oil flow from the oil pump needed to feed the bearings. Ninety–nine percent of the auto mechanics (if they are honest) will admit that a bypass filter is far more efficient than a full-flow filter. Any car equipped with the new Refiner Oil Refiner, even after thousands of miles without draining the oil and providing you faithfully change the tissue element, the oil remains clean. Why not put the amount previously spent on oil and filter changes in your pocket instead of putting it down an oil drain and prolong the engine life of your car, truck, tractor, boat, or any internal-combustion engine? When you sell or trade your vehicle, transfer the Refiner to another vehicle. The Refiner fits all vehicles. It’s a choice of paying for dozens of oil and filter changes and still having dirty oil and excessive wear on your expensive engine or buying the Refiner and having clean oil continually and prolonging engine life for one-tenth the cost.

Q. Don’t modern detergent oils have additives that keep oil clean?

A. No. All modern high-detergent oils contain a number of additives, but not one is designed to keep oil clean. Additives are used to keep dirt dispersed in the oil so it won’t settle, but it will still circulate through your car’s lubrication system. Any qualified mechanic will tell you that the thin film of oil between closely fitted moving parts is the most important factor in preventing engine wear and reducing friction. Any dirt present in this thin film can cause wear on your engine. One major oil company used to claim that it can hold more than a pound of dirt in suspension. Wouldn’t you rather get the dirt out than have it circulate through the engine? Racing drivers, without exception, drain the oil from their crankcase after every race. They know what even the slightest amount of dirt can do to an expensive engine. Oil performs four vital functions in your car’s engine: it cools, cleans, seals, and lubricates. Only clean oil can properly perform these four vital functions. Automotive and lubrication authorities agree that clean oil performs these functions better than dirty oil.

Q.   Does the Refiner Oil Refiner void new car warranties?

A.   No. The warranty on your vehicle cannot be voided because you install a Refiner Oil Refiner. The Refiner Oil Refiner is used in addition to the factory-installed full flow filter cartridge. However, all the new-car maintenance requirements must be met by the owner during the factory-designated period. You are also protected by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. More information is available under the "Links" area of my website.

Q.   Why do auto manufacturers specify that I must drain my oil every 2,000 to 7,500 miles?

A.   Because the manufacturer realizes the damaging effect that dirty oil has on the critical parts of your engine. Even though your car has a factory-installed filter, you must drain your oil periodically. Why? Because it’s dirty! The cost of an average oil and filter change today is more than $40. When you hand the service-station attendant $40, you know then and there that in 2,000 to 7,500 miles, you will be back to hand him another $40 for another oil and filter change. This money literally goes down the drain. What you may not realize is that when you start your car to leave, all that clean oil has to do is splash around in your dirty crankcase, and you drive home with dirty oil. The longer you drive, the dirtier it gets, causing excess wear on the engine. The fact that the auto manufacturer specifies that you must drain your oil is an indirect admission that the filter has not kept it clean. If the standard factory filter did an efficient job of filtration, all the abrasive sludge would be trapped in the filter element, and only clean oil would circulate through your engine.

Q.   Who can install my Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     The Refiner Oil Refiner is most-often installed by the vehicle owner as a Do-It-Yourself project but can also be installed by your local mechanic.

Q.   What tools are necessary for installing a Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     Installation is usually quite simple and just a few tools are necessary. You will need two adjustable wrenches, a knife to cut the rubber oil line, pliers, screwdriver, hammer and occasionally a drill for mounting the unit. We supply the punch required to install a specially-designed self-tapping hollow bolt for some installations for the return oil line from the Refiner Oil Filter back to the engine oil supply. This is what we refer to as a “standard installation” method we have used successfully for over 65 years.

Q.   How long does it take to install a Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     Installation should take about one hour.

Q.   Why is the new Refiner Oil Filter better than the older original Filter?

A.   The new Refiner Oil Filter is four times better than the original filter model for several reasons. The new unit is larger, easier to change without spilling any oil, it goes farther between cartridge changes, and it eliminates the need to pack the tissue roll into the canister. Also, the canister is made of stainless steel and will not rust when collecting water condensation from the oil that is caused by heating and cooling.

Q.   Is the Refiner Oil Filter easy to service?

A.   Yes! Unlike most spin-on filters, the Refiner Oil Filter is mounted so it can be serviced from the top side of the engine. Simply remove the used element and replace it with a new one. The roll is placed on the aluminum base first; then place the canister over the tissue roll and, finally, apply the V band and tighten down the quick-release latch. Add one quart of oil to replace the amount absorbed by the new element. All this can be done in less than five minutes, and you can do it when you’/re dressed in your good clothes, you will hardly soil your fingers if you do it properly. If you are accustomed to draining your oil, you will really appreciate the new Refiner. The 3,000 to 4,000 mile cartridge change is so easy that men, women, teenagers, and elderly persons can change it and save on oil-and-filter-change rip offs!

Q.   How much will this new Refiner Oil Filter cost me?

A.   The new Refiner Oil Filter kit comes complete with all lines, brass fittings, and detailed installation instructions. The cost is approximately what four to five oil and filter spin-on changes would cost. If you are a do-it-yourself person or have any mechanical knowledge, you can install the Oil Refiner yourself, or you can have it installed by a mechanic or even a friend. We recommend starting with your dirty oil that you may be ready to drain. This means you do not need to pay for an oil change. The Refiner will clean the dirty oil in two or three cartridge changes.

Q.   Is the Refiner Oil Filter easy to install?

A.   Yes. The basic essentials are a feed source, an oil return point, and a mounting location.

Q.   Is this a proven product?

A.   Yes! The Refiner Oil Filter by John Frantz is no Johnny-come-lately to the automotive scene. It is now being used on industrial equipment costing as much as $300,000 powered by diesel engines that operate 24 hours a day. Individuals and fleet owners worldwide use the Refiner. The original filter by John Frantz is also sold and used in other countries and have been using the filters for more than 50 years as well as here in the U.S. The professionals use the Refiner primarily because they realize they can save thousands of dollars on needless oil changes and also protect their expensive engines against the damage done by dirty oil. Fleet owners now using the new, improved Refiner model appreciate the ease of changing the cartridge without oil spillage. They also save or eliminate down time on their vehicles and reduce expensive mechanical maintenance and repairs. Every mile you drive without the Refiner is costing you money and is shortening the life of your car’s engine. Do something about it now – before you are hit with another big repair bill! The dip stick tells the story. On gasoline engines, if the dip stick is black, the vehicle owner was not faithful in changing the cartridge as often as necessary. On a diesel engine, the dip stick is usually black, but this does not necessarily indicate that the oil was dirty. A few oil-analysis tests done by a laboratory will establish the appropriate schedule for the cartridge changes on a diesel engine.

Q.   If the TP Element for the Refiner Oil Filter is so effective, isn’t it rather expensive to replace?

A.     Not at all. Therein lies the real genius of Mr. John Frantz' patented invention. He designed his oil filter to use a filter element that is already widely available and cheap: a roll of Toilet Paper!  It has been proven that this roll of thin paper, manufactured and sold for a different familiar purpose, is also a most highly effective oil filter. In the Refiner, oil from the engine pressure source flows up through the cardboard center core of the toilet paper, “fountains outward” when it reaches the top of the tube and is then forced downward through the turns of paper, from one end of the roll to the other", so to speak, through about four and one-quarter inches of densely rolled paper. The oil has nowhere to go except through the turns of the paper, which is highly effective in trapping fine particles. The bottom edge of the roll rests upon two metal screens (one coarse and one fine) which holds it in place. Filtered oil passes through these screens and is returned back to the engine.

Q.   Why does the Refiner Oil Filter work so well?

A.     Consider the standard full-flow filter from your car manufacturer. It usually consists of a piece of paper or cardboard curved into a circle and is usually corrugated for strength – not for filtering! Then it is placed in a metal housing with a by-pass feature many are unaware of. It is not unlike your coffee filter whereby your coffee water flows through a thin membrane trapping coffee grounds (not always). The coffee filter is VERY thin and porous. The by-pass feature is a safeguard by your manufacturer to allow unfiltered oil to pass through the filter allowing dirty oil to be circulated in your engine. The Refiner TP Element is designed to have your engine oil flow through four or four and one quarter inches of densely-rolled 1-ply paper before being returned back to your engine and it needs no bypass valve. After all, it is a by-pass filter!

Q.   What is the oil-cleaning capacity of a Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     Each single unit will clean up to 8 quarts of lubricating oil and can be up to 10 quarts with more frequent element changes. Two single Refiners may be installed in a "parallel" sequence to provide sufficient cleaning capability for those engines with a crankcase capacity exceeding 8 quarts and up to 20 quarts.

Q.   What is the flow rate of oil through a Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     The normal rate of flow of 30 weight oil at a temperature of 180 degrees and 30 p.s.i. is approximately one quart per minute. This flow rate will vary depending on oil viscosity temperature and oil pressure.

Q.   What quality or type of hose is used for the Refiner?

A.     The oil line supplied for use with the Refiner is a special neoprene hose for use with lubricating oils and fuels. This oil line is rated at 250 PSI or higher constant working pressure at 300 degrees.

Q.   What is the base gasket made of?

A.     The base seal, or gasket, is made from the finest quality material available. It will give many months of trouble free service under normal conditions. Each time the Refiner canister is removed for servicing; the base gasket should be wiped clean and inspected. Eventually, the gasket will harden and develop a groove from the edge of the cylinder, which will lead to oil leakage. Gaskets should be replaced at least once a year to assure reliable service.

Q.   What about oil pressure?

A.     The flow rate of the Refiner is controlled by a restricting orifice located in the aluminum base casting at the "inlet" oil supply line to filter. The lubricating oil pump, in any engine, has the capacity to produce many times the volume of oil required by the oil system of the engine. Most of the oil volume produced is bypassed by means of an oil pump regulator valve and dumped directly back into the crankcase. The very small amount of oil diverted by the Refiner is supplied from the excess oil produced by the pump. When properly installed on a normally functioning engine, the Refiner cannot lower the oil pressure or "starve" an engine of oil to the extent as to cause damage.

Q.   What does it mean when you say the Refiner Oil Filter can be used as a "barometer" for preventive maintenance?

A.     Due to the unique filter media and construction of the Refiner, it is one of the greatest indicators of engine malfunctions. "Reading" the used tissue element and making a visual comparison with the Instant Engine Analysis chart provides an early detection of engine malfunction when abnormal deposits are seen. Such early detection of engine trouble can prevent more extensive damage and save you costly repair bills.

Q.   What are the recommended Service Intervals for a Refiner?

A.     After you install your Refiner, the first element change should be at 500-1000 miles. Thereafter, these standard guidelines should be followed.

  • Gas engines: Change your TP Element every 3000 miles.
  • Diesel Engines: Change your TP Element every 2500 miles.
  • Change more often for dusty driving conditions.

Q.   How am I supposed to service my Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     The steps to replace the TP Element are:

  1. Loosen the blue knob several turns until you can swing out the end of the quick-disconnect clamp from the T-bolt.
  2. Remove the clamp.
  3. Lift off the canister.
  4. Remove the TP element from the canister. If too snug, use a pliers to pull out of canister.
  5. Replace with a clean new 1-ply TP. Place the TP on top of the filter base (not into the canister).
  6. Cover the TP with the canister.
  7. Replace the clamp and secure snug with the blue knob.
  8. Top off your engine oil level if necessary. If you change your TP in the early morning before starting the engine, sometimes the oil will drain back down to the oil pan over the 8 hours and the TP will be dry to the touch with no mess and very little loss of clean oil.

Q.   My Refiner does not have the same kind of clamp you show on your website. Do I have the wrong one?

A.     There were several types of clamps used with the Refiner. The latest and newest is a blue knob with a "T" bolt type. Older versions have an "over center" type or a clamp with a black knob. Occasionally you will see a very old outdated model that had two long bolts with large knobs at the top.

Q.   Now that I have removed the clamp it seems as though the canister won't come off. What do I do?

A.     To remove the canister, rock back and forth and twist a few times to release the vacuum. Wipe canister with a clean rag.

Q.   Does a Refiner Oil Filter have to be mounted in a certain position for proper operation?

A.     No. Since the Refiner is pressurized, it can be mounted in any position. (Right side up, Upside Down, Sideways or at an Angle)

Q.   If I do not have access to the oil pressure sending unit on my vehicle, how else can I provide the pressure feed into the Refiner?

A.     If access to your vehicles oil pressure sending unit is either difficult or impossible, we offer for a modest additional cost, a sandwich adapter that can be placed between the engine block and your spin-on full-flow filter for a quick and easy installation.

Q.   Can't I still use any brand or type of toilet paper for my Refiner Oil Filter?

A.     When the Refiner was first invented, the variety of toilet paper choices was slim! They were all similar. It is true, that you used to be able to go into any grocery store and buy any brand on the shelf. Unfortunately, this has changed in the last 20 years. The choices of toilet paper available today can confuse the average person! For optimal performance of the Refiner, we recommend you use a 1-ply 1000 sheet per roll toilet paper. The purpose is because the paper winds tighter on a 1-ply than on 2-ply rolls since it is not trapping air between the two plies. We have found acceptable TP in stores such as Target, Walmart, and most grocery store outlets.

Q.   I changed my Refiner from my old car to my new one and I now have a leak problem around the base clamp. What is wrong?

A.     If you have moved your Refiner from an older vehicle to a newer one and have a leak problem, you may need our 1/16" orifice restrictor to help control the pressure of oil flow into the unit now. This can happen with vehicles that have a higher than normal oil pressure pump. Leaking is caused when oil is forced into the Refiner faster than it can exit. You may also need a new rubber gasket to seal the canister to the base of the filter.

Q.   Since toilet paper is bio-degradable won’t my Refiner disintegrate causing paper to flow throughout my engine and cause damage?

A.     While toilet paper is designed to disintegrate in water, it has a retention quality in oil. This means is won’t unwind if left alone in a bucket of oil. It also rests on a screen base and has a snug fit enclosed inside the filter canister container.

Q.   Can I use the Refiner on other engines besides car and truck engines?

A.     Yes, absolutely. The Refiner will work perfectly on most any combustible gas or diesel engine including boats, tractors, heavy equipment, busses, generators, compressors, motorcycles, jet skis, snowmobiles, and even for filtering cooking oil for our veggie fuel friends.

Q.   Can I use more than one Refiner on my engine?

A.     Yes, you can but it is probably unnecessary. Each single unit will clean up to 8 quarts of lubricating oil and can be up to 10 quarts with more frequent element changes. Two single Refiner units may be installed in a "parallel" sequence to provide sufficient cleaning capability for those engines with a crankcase capacity exceeding 8 quarts and up to 20 quarts.

Q.   Where can I install the Refiner if I am cramped for space under my hood?

A.     That will depend on your vehicle’s design and characteristics. You must remember since the Refiner is under pressure by the oil pump, your location to mount the filter is only limited by the length of your oil line hose. Sometimes the place to mount it is not under the hood. Try in front of the radiator behind the grill or on the vehicle frame underneath. Usually there are voids under the hood that one only needs to make a bracket for the Refiner mounting bracket to mount to. With the use of longer hose from the engine to the Refiner, it can virtually be mounted almost anywhere. Use your imagination. Just remember that the oil lines and the filter do get hot as the oil flows through them and be careful of moving parts such as fan belts or pulleys.

Q.   My car is special. It is a show car. Do you have something for me?

A.     You’re in luck. Our Refiner comes with a highly polished stainless steel canister. It is polished to a mirror finish. It will enhance the best looking engines for show. When you pop that hood your friends will ask “what is that cool-looking unit?” Now you can share the Refiner story and tell them where they can get their own. They will appreciate it and so will we.

Q.   My car is also so special that I use synthetic oil. Will the Refiner work with synthetic oil?

A.     Absolutely! Many of our customers have an extreme care of their engine operation and use synthetic oil. The Refiner works excellent with all kinds of oil products.

Q.   What is a Sandwich Adapter and how is it used with the Refiner?

A.     A Sandwich Adapter is a machined metal insert that is installed or “sandwiched” between your car's stock spin-on oil filter and the engine block where the stock oil filter screws onto. It is used to supply oil to the Refiner for continuous filtering of your oil instead of installing a "T" fitting at the oil sending unit to acquire the oil pressure source.

Q.   What is the difference between a by-pass oil filter and a full-flow oil filter?

A.     A by-pass filter is a secondary filter to another filter on the engine – usually a manufacturer’s filter when the engine is manufactured. Only a portion of the oil flow is routed to the by-pass filter but eventually all the oil will have passed through it. A full-flow filter is the single filter on the engine and all the oil passes through in the normal lubricating system.

Q.   Can the Refiner be used on boats?

A.   Yes. The Refiner is a popular choice among mariners due to its manufactured process utilizing a polished stainless steel canister, an aluminum filter base, and even the mounting bracket is coated to avoiding rust. A Refiner will work on inboard gas or diesel engines on boats or marine vessels.

Q.   Can I use the Refiner for my small gas or diesel engine?

A.     A Refiner will work great on smaller engines in boats, off-road vehicles, snow mobiles, quads, motorcycles, garden tractors, riding lawnmowers, generators, and many other applications.

Q.   Aren’t these filters rather expensive?

A.     It’s all relative. Years ago in 1960, the filter cost $29.95 (installed). That was approximately 10% of an average person’s monthly salary. Today, the filter price has not kept up with inflation and certainly does not cost 10% of one’s monthly salary. They actually pay for themselves as time goes on. Longer intervals between those $49.95 oil changes are possible. Some find no need to even change the oil anymore offering even greater savings. Normal maintenance is simply a roll of toilet paper costing about 50 cents every 3000 miles (2500 miles for diesels).

Q.   Where do I get access to the oil to send it to the Refiner?

A.     There are a few options. First and the traditional method used for 65 years is to get the oil from where the oil pressure gauge sending unit screws into the engine. Remove the sending unit, screw a “T” fitting into the hole in the engine where the sending unit was just removed. Reinstall the sending unit into the new “T” fitting and attach the Refiner oil supply hose fitting to the other threaded hole in the “T” fitting. You now have an oil supply to filter. Some larger engines actually have a plugged test port which can be used by simply removing the plug and attaching the supply oil line fitting to the threaded port. A popular method is utilizing a Sandwich Adapter or Ring Adapter. This is an item that sandwiches between your spin-on stock oil filter and the engine. Remove the stock filter from the engine. (Now is a good time to put a new one on.) Place the sandwich adapter with the gasket side against the engine and secure in place with the center nut. Tighten just slightly more than you do the filter so it does not unscrew when you remove the filter the next time. Now install the new filter or reinstall the removed spin on filter to the sandwich adapter. There is a threaded port on the side edge of the sandwich adapter to receive your oil supply line fitting to the Refiner.

We now have a duplex sandwich adapter. It has a threaded port for the supply and another for the return hose. This is a five minute job!

Q.   How do I get the filtered clean oil back into the engine again?

A.     There are several methods to return the clean oil back into the engine. The traditional method is by utilizing a special our punch tool and punching a hole in the oil pan. A self-tapping hollow bolt is then screwed into this opening which is threaded and now receives the return oil line fitting. The hole cannot be drilled. By punching with the special tool, the metal is forced inward as if a bullet hit it resulting in about ¼” of metal for the threads on the self-tapping hollow bolt to grab and seal. A special sealing washer ensures no leaks. Another method is similar to the above but rather than punching the oil pan one would punch the valve cover. Make sure neither the pan nor the valve cover are cast iron or aluminum! If they are, you will have to drill and tap the hole to accept the 1/8”NPT hose fitting.

Today, a popular option is to drill a hole through the oil filler cap and install a brass fitting which has threads to accept the return oil line fitting. I am aware of some customers who have installed a quick-disconnect fitting similar to what is used with compressor air hoses. Seems to work just fine. Some larger engines (such as the 7.3L) also actually have a plugged test port which can be used by simply removing the plug and attaching the return oil line fitting to the threaded port. If your vehicle has an oil cooler, you might be able to tie into the return line with a simple brass “T” fitting.

Another solution is the use of my duplex sandwich adapter. It has a supply port and a return port for the two hoses to connect. It is that simple.

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