Guest Book

I have been told by a long time toilet paper filter enthusiast from Texas that Walmart carries Scott 1000 individually wrapped rolls with a 1 1/2 inch center core, he mentioned the paper is slightly softer, less densely packed than the multi packaged rolls, hope this helps anybody out there with an old Frantz Sky.

Directions are very detailed. The fact that Ed puts his personal number on the directions shows the belief in the product. A filter is a filter no matter what kind it is, but when the seller has detailed directions, catered to your specific engine, that’s impressive. I have ordered a lot of products from different companies that specialize in 7.3 products and there is only 1 other that supplies direction for their products as good as Ed does. Kudos brother.

Ed sent a couple of his new and improved base gaskets in the mail to get my older Sky's back in tip top shape. I had a few questions about installation methods, drain back to pan, two port sandwich adapter and restrictors, he always responded to my emails quickly and with his wealth of knowledge, set me straight.
I will always highly recommend Ed and his service to anyone that is looking for parts for their older Sky, or want to step up to a new Frantz Refiner.

Great addition to older vehicles that either used bypass filtration as OEM or didn't have an oil filter as standard equipment. Added one to my '55 Chevy 235, it's working much better than the filter setup I had on it. Highly recommended.

Hello folks. My name is Ed and I am the owner of the Toilet Paper Oil Filter Company. I manufacture and sell the Refiner oil filter by John Frantz.

When I was growing up (MANY years ago), I knew more than my father and he was a marine engineer. From the time I was 16 I knew more than he did. Looking back 65 years later and having children of my own, I now understand. Teens generally believe they know more than their parents.

Here’s proof.
My wife and I were driving home at night and were involved in a head-on collision with our 2000 Ford Expedition. A teen driving his Dad’s BMR crossed over the center double yellow line and his left-front fender made contact with the left-front fender of the contractor’s pickup truck in front of me spinning them around. The pickup ended up on the opposite shoulder facing the way we just came from Meanwhile, the BMR continued sliding sideways straight down my lane and collided with me. Due to construction K-rails to my right I had no escape route to avoid him. My engine kept running and I had to reach down and turn it off. That told me my engine at least was still good.

Jump ahead a few months. One of my sons had a 2001 Ford F150 which had not run for a long time due to him and a friend working under the hood and when a part fell into an open sparkplug hole, they tried to simply raise the piston to reach the part by quickly hitting the starter with the key. Unfortunately, the engine started! Result: engine destroyed.

I suggested swapping engines since I knew my engine was still good except for water pump forward destroyed in collision. We did that. Once the engine was installed in his truck it is time to hook up all wires and try it out. Unfortunately, Ford decided to change polarity plugs in 2001 from those in 2000. The solution was to swap back the intake manifolds and all would be well. It was during this swapping I noted the inside of the two engines. Mine was so clean you could eat off it.

The two engine photos are shown in my photo album page on this website. They are the two last photos on the page.

My son’s, well, you can see from the photo, it was not as clean. What was the difference? Well, as a dealer of the Refiner oil filter by John Frantz, I have his filter on all my vehicles while my son who knows more than his father, does not have the filter on any of his vehicles.

You choose the better engine. (My apologies to my son for picking on him.)

Received my Refiner today, very impressed with how quick it came. Packing was well done, and the parts are every bit as nice as I expected. The instructions are very thorough. Looking forward to installing it on my '55 Chevy 235.

Great Seller to work with, very nice high-quality product, great communication, old school pride in product and workmanship. I would buy again without hesitation. Thank you very much.

Very, very high quality (Made in the USA)! After extensively researching bypass filters, cost vs performance vs ease of maintenance, the updated Franz Refiner is the one to get! Toilet paper is cheap and extremely effective at removing particles down to 1 micron and also removes engine coolant something the more expensive filter systems don't do. If you care about your engine or you're doing extended oil changes, you would be foolish not to run a Franz Refiner bypass filter!!!

As a young man, I constantly changed my engine oil often. At that time, not in today's world, lead-bromide was added to gasoline to reduce pre-ignition in the combustion chamber. Getting rid of gasoline dilution and lead was essential in extending the life of an engine. The lead-bromide would produce a dangerous smog for humans to inhale, and it also deposited lead into the engine. This lead floating around in the engine helped wear out the engine much sooner.

Also, as a racing enthusiast, my engines were always top of the line. I would purchase the very best of everything to create the most efficient breathing engine I could develop. That meant power and high RPMs. With a good income, there was nothing that I would let slip by. Each part going into that engine was the best option on the market.

Along the way, I cut a spin-on cartridge apart. The contents were paper. 1/32 of an inch thick. Capable of allowing at least 7 to 9 or more quarts of oil through per minute. My conclusion was that this would stop big rocks and let the rest flow through. What about the small pieces of lead, metal particles, and dirt from the environment? Those are all damaging to the sliding surfaces within any engine, alias ware. Working a second job in gas stations, I had the task of changing many vehicles' oil. Many times, the oil was so dirty that I had to flush the engine before pouring fresh, clean oil into it.

Let us consider water. The moisture from the air will deposit water molecules into the oil surface. Water molecules are hurdled at the oil surface, never to leave unless heated. Clumps of water will settle in the bottom of the pan since water is heavier than oil. You have heard that water and oil do not mix. The lucky ones who took chemistry and understood the topic know that water is polar and oil is non-polar. In conclusion, they do not mix. They may emulsify, leaving an acidic environment.

To prove this conclusion, I have taken paper both printed and full of pictures. I have placed the paper in a flat pan then poured oil over it. It is soaking in oil days, weeks, or months later, yet the paper retains its integrity. The pictures are still there, the print is still readable, and it does not fall apart as it would if I had used water.

Now that I have covered the topic of oil, let's talk about my motivation. First, the 39 Ford coupe with the most robust engine I could build. Shift from 1st to 2nd at 65 MPH, second to third at 105 MPH, and it never lost a race. The power curve peaked at 6500 RPMs and would go to 7500. Using tetraethyl gasoline (about 110 octanes with lead-bromide). Rear ends, transmissions and blown pistons were commonplace. I would buy oil by the case and never be satisfied with the cleanliness of the engine. After thousands of dollars in engine development, knowing that it was not as clean as it should be was a bother.

I sold an engine that I had maintained. The purchaser started to take it apart. As soon as he got the valve covers and the intake manifold off, he stopped and reassembled it. I felt my maintenance had been successful. Then I found the filter by John Frantz sold by Sky Corporation of Stockton. Suddenly I could filter my oils by replacing the 1/32 of an inch spin-on filter with a secondary filter of about 4 and ½ inches long of tightly packed toilet paper.

Along with that, I could get rid of the so-called detergent that most oil companies required. It is nothing but a selling tool to let the public think it actually cleans. It only suspends the particles so they may be resent through the system. Dark or black oil is not necessarily dirty; it is black, the color of the heated detergent. Again, the oil companies are using this to imply that your oil needs replacing. You need to properly filter the oil to clean it, which may remain black.

The next part is the most important. It is what should be shown to customers. (Continue with Part 2 below)

Since finding the filter by John Frantz, every car I have owned has had a filter by John Frantz. My maintenance time and money were reduced immediately, and the oils were always clean.

Let's start with one I have today. Twenty years ago, I purchased a 1986 Jaguar coupe in Arizona, brought it to California, rebuilt a 1998 Corvette engine while upgrading it, and installed it along with an R-4 transmission. Changed oil twice since then and am still driving it. The oil changes were for possible gas dilution. I tend to drive it faster than my other cars. Had it up close to 200 MPH occasionally. I am getting too old for that, but it is a good memory. The engine is still purring away at well over 500,000 miles. It does not use oil; I drove it year-round. It is soon to be my son's car.

Then let's discuss my father's 1980 Buick. When he purchased a new car. He would walk in with cash and negotiate the terms, then drive away with what he wanted. My father traveled everywhere. Many-many times drove this Buick across the USA, throughout Canada, and some parts of South America. He put more than 700,000 miles on that Buick over twenty-plus years. I would change the filter. He would be off driving. After he passed away, I took over the Buick. I ran the mileage up to over 800,000 miles in the twenty-first century before the old Buick had a short in the electrical system that totaled it. Over 800,000 miles and still running without using oil, just purring along.

The last one is the most surprising. I have not mentioned my water-skiing passion. Competitive Slalom Skiing. 3 to 5 days a week, I would ski twice a day, sometimes more. I ran a ski school using this boat. I ordered the hull, the engine, transmission, trailer, and upholstery to my specs. I chose a 427 cubic inch cross bolt-main engine with one large four-barrel carburetor. Two friends of mine were also skiers. They bought the same type of boat and the same type of engine. The only difference was the upholstery. I suggested that they use the filter by John Frantz. They declined.

Their response was, "The manufacture says to change the oil and spin-on filter every 50 hours. Therefore, they must know better than you."

They considered me a screwball. At that time, nondetergent oil was on the auto shop shelves. I chose nondetergent to prove my point about detergents and the filter by John Frantz. The use of these boats was under the exact same conditions. I ran it on conventional fuel and changed oil occasionally (150 to 250 hours) for gasoline pollution in the oil. Checking the oil, it looked the same as when it came from the can. A boat motor must run up the hill every second the boat is underway. No cruising like in a car. This means that the engine is working much harder when underway.

Now the outcome caused by this screwball. One friend overhauled his engine at just over 1,225 hours. The other friend overhauled his engine at 1,450 hours. My boat was used much more than theirs in both saltwater and fresh. The engine was still humming along at over 8,600 hours of use. The hull structure literally fell apart. The engine was still humming along and not using oil.

Attn: Mr. J Bentley

I have mounted a filter in my 2000 Expedition in front of the radiator and behind the grill. I removed the dust cover and cut a "D" shaped door for access. It worked great. I'm not sure if your Explorer has the same luxury but you are only limited by the length of hose to the filter. Sometimes a frame mount is necessary. I have hose up to 100' lengths.

In the early 1960's I bacame a Frantz Oil Cleaner distributor after several arguments with my uncle that oil had to be replaced periodically. He had a Frantz on his Chevy pickup truck from about 1950. In 1966 I bought my first new car. A 1966 Buick Riviera in "Tisian Red" and what a beauty. I installed a Frantz Oil Cleaner on the new car and never had the drain plug off the care until when I traded the Buick in for another new one after it had 112,000 miles on it. In my testing of the Cleaner I found that it could remove a cup of water in one pass through the Cleaner while being filled with oil. I saw black oil in a backhoe tractor turn clear in a month. This was before the oil companies started adding something to the oil that turned i black in about a thousand miles looking as if it had gotten very dirty. Removing moisture from the oil eliiminates the production of sulfuric acid in the oil which is the primary reason behind what we call wear. Currently I am trying figure out how to mount a new Frantz on a 1999 Ford Explorer with no room to put it under the hood.... I feel lucky!

I was contacted by a customer who reports that he found some T.P. that fits EXACTLY into the SKY units. The paper is available from WalMart only in the automotive department. It is called CAMCO RV & Marine toilet paper. It is 4.5" tall and has a 1.5" CENTER core. This is the first I have seen a roll with a 1.5" center in decades.

I have an original classic type of the filter by John Frantz on my 1968 Jaguar coupe with a 1998 Corvette engine. The Jaguar coupe has over 450,000 miles. I just changed the toilet paper filter after a year of driving. I have had this Jaguar up to 200 MPH on many occasions. I run the Jaguar’s Highway speeds between 85 and 95 MPH in most mid-western states. The oil is pristine clean yet is slightly black from the detergent.
Detergent for engine oil was developed in 1930. It doesn’t clean your engine. It suspends the dirt in your engine so that well-known sludge does not accumulate. It ensures that pieces of metal, rock, dirt particles are recycled continuously through your precious engine as you are driving.
Paper, including toilet paper, does not disintegrate in petroleum oil. To prove this point, I put a newspaper in a flat baking pan filled to the brim with petroleum oil. I also put another piece of paper in another flat baking pan filled to the brim with canola oil. Petroleum oil is inorganic (Alias non-polar), and Canola oil is organic (Alias polar). The newspaper in the canola oil fell apart and was unreadable. Two years later, when I pulled the paper out of the petroleum oil, the paper was readable and as firmly bonded together as when it was first submerged.
By the way, reader, “What is the spin-on filter made of? Yep, 1/32 of an inch of PAPER. What a reality check. It catches the big ones and allows all of the other particles to recycle through that precious engine of yours.”
Years ago, I used non-detergent oil. The oil stayed as clean as when it was poured from the container. I have had a filter by John Frantz on every car (10) and boats (4), large family, since the mid-twentieth century, over 60 years. Look at my article on this web site.
My second car was my son’s Dodge pickup. I returned it to him after he returned from his overseas deployment.
It has a new Refiner by John Frantz filter, 10w30 oil, and about 300,000 miles on it.
Recently I bought a used 2004 Tahoe from my mechanic friend that had relatively low mileage and is in good condition. It had 10w30 quality oil in the engine. The owner had recently changed the oil and spin-on filter about 2,000 miles before. This Tahoe had about 145,000 miles on it when I purchased it.
I had so much confidence in the filters by John Frantz that I did not change the existing oil or the spin-on filter. Still, I only added the new Refiner by John Frantz filter produced by Ed Greany. I checked my oil for cleanliness at several intervals. Yet, with a filter by John Frantz, there will be no particle in the oil larger than 1 to 2 microns. That is much smaller than a human hair follicle.
At 200 miles. It was significantly cleaner. It was almost pristinely clean. Within just 350 miles, it became more apparent, and it looked as if I had just changed the oil. I plan on continuing to drive this Tahoe without changing oil. At 500 miles, I will change my first toilet paper roll, then every 3,000 to 5,000 miles after that, I will change the toilet paper filter.

Got my oil refiner installed after oil change on my 7.3 powerstroke put a thousand miles on it, my oil used to be black at 500 mi.it is alot clearer can see the dipstick through it.the guys that say they don't work or they plug your engine with tp dont understand the concept.i did change the first roll out at 500mi.i was amazed at how much black soot was in the media,also no particles or paper coming apart.definatley cant hurt the engine with cleaner oil.buy your oil refiner from Ed,support our veterans